Counter strike go download. I thought you guys/gals would be more interested in this project than my wife has been.Last season my Granddad upgraded to a 1991 1660 combine. It took quite a bit of work to make the machine ready for last season; a head cart, modified the ladder to pivot to clear a four row head, and build an adapter to mount the John Deere corn head.The combine was not equipped with a rock trap and we could not find one in time to install it before harvest, and the inevitable happened.
The rock bent the rotor blades and tore up the concaves and vanes inside the rotor housing. We limped through last season by hand grinding the rotor blades for clearance which caused the rotor to vibrate from being unbalanced. The rotor is about 24' in diameter, 8' long, approximately 1000 pounds, and spins up to 750 RPM.
I have turned some pretty large shafts, when 30 RPM seemed way to fast, this thing spinning at that RPM is pretty impressive.Before this harvest we decided to replace the rotor. With the rotor removed the extent of the damage and wear was clear.
Granddad picked up all the parts for a complete rebuild of the rotor and housing along with a rock trap.We started by replacing the vanes inside the rotor housing, these are essentially just rolled pieces of stainless steel angle. This was more difficult than it looks as one person had to be inside the housing and another outside using his go-go-gadget arms to reach the bolts.The front vanes were a little more difficult as the are also rolled to form a helix. It took some prying and heat to make them conform, but the fact that they lined up with 18 year old bolt holes was enough to impress me as these are not easy parts to make. I am not sure why these we not stainless but they looked a good deal better than the old ones. Once we replaced the concaves it was time to install the rotor.We rigged up a mount to the back hoe and guided the rotor in.We lined the bottom of the housing with 1/8' x 12' x 8' steel plate to allow the rotor to slide over the concaves after we had went as far as we could with this setup.The backhoe finished the job with the rear bucket.To seat the rotor it took three of us; one guy on the backhoe another giving the backhoe operator instructions and one guy rotating the splined shaft that drives the rotor.
We used the concaves to raise the rotor inline with the splined shaft and with a nudge and some wiggling it settled in.We had a scare after installing the front bearing housing, when we spun the rotor it did not clear the housing. After a good deal of head scratching and dread at the prospect that the rotor did not fit we realized we had seated the rotor to far on the spline shaft. Once we pulled the rotor ahead so that it was supported on the front bearing everything cleared as it should.With the rotor installed we moved onto the rock trap. To account for the increased length of the feeder house due to the rock trap I machined three cylinder extensions.With some new mounting pins machined and after replacing the bearings and balancing the beater cylinder the rock trap was installed.The beater cylinder was not very well balanced. We were not sure if this would be an issue but we set it up on its bearings and were able to do a pretty good job of balancing it.
You can see one of the weights in the photo.With the addition of the rock trap the feeder house drive chain needed to be rerouted with the addition of an idler pulley. The bracket shown is just tacked into place in the photo.We left the project last Saturday after mounting the feeder house. We were able to engage the rotor and everything performed well. It is amazing to realize exactly what you are sitting on top of when you are in the cab. Watching the rotor spin under power that fast makes the hair on the back of you neck stand up. It has taken my Grandad, uncle, and myself all of our free time over the last two months to get this far with a few more days needed to button everything up. Hopefully we will be running beans soon.Regards,Kyle Smith.
Everyone should have a backhoe for intricate assembly worksweetThe backhoe is Granddad's answer to everything. I suspect if you told him you had a stomach ache he would suggest using the back hoe in some capacity. A perfect example of this happened as we were working last Saturday. The extension spring that pulls the clutch in place gave up after 20 years. The clutch in the combine is nothing more than a pedal that allows hydraulic fluid to flow for the hydro stat. We picked up a replacement spring and this thing is stout. It is about an 1 1/4' in diameter with 1/8' wire and about 6' long.
It needed to be stretched to about 7 inches long and you could not physically stretch the spring. I suggested if I could slip washers between each coil I could stretch the spring out enough to hook it to its mounts. While I was thinking up a complicated way of stretching the spring Granddad fires up the backhoe and mounts the spring with two short pieces of chain on each end. With one end hooked to the backhoe frame and another to the bucket the hydraulics stretched the spring to allow the washers to be slipped in.
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Once installed on the combine the clutch was depressed stretching the spring even more and all the washers fell out, job finished. I am pretty sure this is not how they did it at the factory, but it worked. Kyle,My granddad did custom threshing then combining around these parts for years.
He always said; 'If you want to be a successful farmer, you have to know a little bit about everything else first'. You just proved that!RayThat quote is very true. My Granddad is the most mechanically gifted individual I have ever met. I am more a grunt on this project, 98% of the credit goes to him. I am not sure I would have the guts to disassemble my most expensive piece of equipment two months before I absolutely had to use it for my livelihood.JS and wtrueman, thank you for the kind words. I retired from farming in 2002 and sold everything except the backhoe.
It still comes in handy around the machine shop.Had a combine like that. There is an access panel up by the rotor gearbox that you can take off and fasten a pulley on and run a cable thru to help pull the rotor back in place rather than trying to push it all the way in. I did mine once by myself, next time I had a helper to make it easy. Easiest modern combine to work on by far.I don't know if they still offer it, but the factory will balance your rotor for free. All you do is have a dealer call and make an appointment and take it there and they'll do it for you.
I've watched a number of them being done, been there a couple times. I don't know if they still offer it, but the factory will balance your rotor for free. All you do is have a dealer call and make an appointment and take it there and they'll do it for you.
I've watched a number of them being done, been there a couple times.This is an aftermarket rotor that is quite a bit different from the original. This has two blades whereas the original had three and they increased the number of rasp bars along the O.D. Of the rotor and made them more 'aggressive' I guess you would say. IH originally had a four blade design and progressed to the two blade design. The rotor shown is a 2005, if it is still current I am not sure. They also have a variety of rasp bars for various crops. How much all this means in terms of performance will see this fall, for a small outfit like this going faster doesn't really help as we could barely keep the grain away from it before.
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I saw a show about original combines. They said few have survived because they were made of wood and used greased wood for shaft bearings. If the wood was not kept greased it would heat up and catch fire!!!!
Burning the combine to the ground. That would make for a BAD harvest!That is still true today. Although certainly not made of wood, bearing failures can easily result in combine fires. The chaff is very flammable. My Granddad's Uni-System combine caught fire because of a bearing failure and burnt to crisp. I nearly burnt up a 6620 after doing some welding, three fire extinguishers saved the day. By cleaning the machine as best you can and pre soaking the area with water and having a person with a hose at the ready you can minimize the risk.
John Deere 6620 Combine Problems
I saw a show about original combines. They said few have survived because they were made of wood and used greased wood for shaft bearings. If the wood was not kept greased it would heat up and catch fire!!!! Burning the combine to the ground. That would make for a BAD harvest!I doubt if any shaft ever turned fast enough on the old machines to catch a wood block on fire.Wood bearing blocks (appear to be maple) are still used on some machines. In some applications, such as straw walkers, (split bearing application) they will outlast other bearing materials and never need greased.
When they get loose, just run them across a jointer and snug them up.The wood blocks are supplied from the factory impregnated with lubricant. Would the lubricant be a light weight mineral oil, or would linseed oil be better?
Combine Grain Tank Flip-Top Cover Kits. Pivoting bow pockets also feature adjustable locking screws. This allows you to raise the height of the bows. The web strap purlins help hold the position and allow all the bows to be raised or alligned in succession. Mounting brackets are attached to the two angled side panels. The pivoting bow pockets then attach to the mounting brackets with a single pin.
Removable bows slide into pockets. This allows you to remove the tarp and bows quickly and easily by just removing two pins. Cover is made from 18oz. Vinyl coated nylon. Extra strong 3/8' shock cord sewn in the hem to seal cover tightly to sides. Corners are reinforced for added strength. All seams are heat sealed or electronically welded.
Purlin straps are 1' 1000 lb. Webbing. Cover has a 12' drop for a water tight seal over extension sides.
Steel pins for quick release pivoting bow plates. Web ties hold the bows in position for covering. Brass rust resistant #2 grommets with 3/8' ID.
Fabric cover is waterproof, impervious to mildew and rot. Hems and reinforced corners are sewn with three ply polyester thread. It is stronger than cotton thread and resistant to mildew & rot. Bows are galvanized steel. They won't rust.
In addition to being easily removed, the tarp and bows can be raised to form a weather proof domed top that protects the grain from rain or can be lowered quickly for road transport. The tarp and bows will collapse within the grain extension sides. It is recommended the tarp and bows be lowered when transporting the combine. For removal, take out pins and the tarp and bows can be easily lifted off.
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